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17/01/94 - HO CHI MINH CITY
Diary day 4 by Bryan Adams:
Day off in Ho Chi Minh City. Bruce goes to the airport. Hes
back to Canada. The plan today is to drive for about an hour (it
turns out to be two and a half hours) into the countryside to visit
another local attraction. This one is called the Ciu Chi tunnels.
Tim is in fine form. He cant wait to get there because there
is a shooting range where you can blast an AK47 Russian rifle or
an M16 if that doesnt suit you. Our bus takes us around two
oclock. Everyone has been collecting GI lighters and compasses
from the market here. They look real, but my suspicions are high
on the authenticity.
On the way to the tunnels we see rural Vietnam. There are some very
sad sights along the way. We see a group of people who are seriously
deformed we are told that they are Agent Orange victims from
the war.

They are incredibly resourceful here; nothing seems
to have been wasted. All machinery that could be put back into rebuilding
the place after 1975 (when the war ended) has been utilized. There
are old American trucks and jeeps still running (repainted bright
colours). There is still an embargo enforced here by the United
States. I assume its partially because of the American MIAs
here. Supposedly no American businesses can trade here until the
embargo is lifted, hence no cash injections, hence no big business,
hence a lot of recycling. They turn cola cans into toy helicopters.
We pass the Continental Hotel where Graeme Green
used to write.
The city reveals itself to us as we trek onward
into the country. The main road is virtually dirt and very straight,
built by the armies. Either side are an assortment of shanty shops
with the odd brick one thrown in for good measure. French bread
is a big thing here (it doesnt quite taste the same
but its still good).
People everywhere stare at us as our bus driver
honks every other second to avoid running over the various pedestrians
& tradesmen on their scooters. I saw two guys carrying huge
sheets of plate glass on a Vespa, another girl with twenty or thirty
live ducks strapped to her bike going top speed down this dirt road.
Anywhere else in the world this would be considered
complete chaos but here in Vietnam it seems to be business as usual.
Thousands of hectares of rice fields pass us and
we stop to have a wander round on top of them. Ive never seen
rice being grown before. A young girl comes over and asks me for
money, I ask the guy from Details for his pen (maybe hell
stop writing down everything I say) and I give it to her. She is
delighted and runs off to show her friends.
We arrive some time later, at the tunnels to the
sound of AK47 gunfire.
Obviously other tourists have come to share the
experience. Tim starts to moan about how theyve turned it
into a bloody theme park (not quite). Everyone hits
the gift shop to buy tickets and hats with the Vietnamese star on
the front.
The tunnel tour is sort of strange and I dont bother to go
down under the ground (Im not really that subterranean) even
through Ive all that way and I get a strange vibe and stay
above ground. The journalists and photographers are asking me to
stand here stand there Just walk down the steps and
pretend you went into them OK? OK.

Originally built by the Vietnamese during the French
occupation, this network of tunnels extended nearly 200 kilometres
right underneath the Americans during the war.
I watch Tim shoot a few rounds off in the rifle
range and its back into the bus. He is an amazing character.
He tells me hes skint and that he is very grateful to Andrew
Catlin (London-based photographer) and his company the opportunity
to return here. He says he wants to move here. I can sort of understand
why. It is a place you could disappear. Really disappear. You could
build your own little existence here away from the 20th century.
Im sure that parts of China are like this. Possibly Russia
too.
We return home from our long journey and nobody
is talking. Silence.
Some of us fall asleep (your friendly author included).
It has been sort of overwhelming really. Time to reflect. We have
so much and offer so little.
The neon lights of Ho Chi Minh City beckon us (its
strange for a city that has no lights, to have these huge neon signs
advertising European corporations all over these tiny jungle shanty
shacks).
The sleepy Saigon river flows back and forth all
day and as I sit here writing this, I know you (the reader) will
not fully grasp what this place is all about from my meagre writings.
Youd have tocheck it out yourselves.
All I knew about Vietnam before I came here was
the terrible history of war and human rights violations and from
what Id seen in the movies or in the media.
Vietnam is a beautiful country.
Its probably about to be swallowed by western
businesses.
I uncovered a few stories here.
There are millions more in the naked city.
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